Engineered Flooring Advice & Tips

What is Engineered Flooring

Engineered flooring is a stable wood flooring that is used as an alternative to solid wood flooring. It is created by bonding together 3 layers under high pressure, the bottom layer, the middle core and the top, decorative layer.

Construction of Engineered Flooring

The bottom layer of an engineered wood floor is designed to stabilise the finished product and prevents excessive movement during the changing of the seasons.

The centre layer, or core layer retains the shape of the plank and is machined to incorporate the fitting system. A variety of materials can be used for this, hardwood, softwood or sometimes HDF. The fitting profile can be tongue and groove or a loc system.

The top layer is the part that gets noticed. It consists of a layer of hard wood available in a huge variety of colours, styles and finishes such as oak and walnut. The boards can be unfinished, lacquered or oiled.

 

How Thick is the Hardwood Veneer?

The hardwood veneer is the decorative layer that will give your wood flooring the look and feel of solid wood. The veneer is normally anything between 0.6mm-6mm thick and offers durability and beauty just like any solid wood floor.

 

Can the Floor be Refinished?

Absolutely. The wear layer is very durable, but you may feel many years down the line that you would like to refresh the floor or maybe even change the look. The thickness of the hardwood on this type of flooring means that most floors can be given a new lease of life by sanding and re-finishing. As much as 0.5mm can be sanded back and a new finish applied.

 

Underfloor Heating

Engineered wood flooring can be used with underfloor heating in certain circumstances. The temperature should be evenly distributed and the temperature regulated with a thermostat. A vapour barrier should be used and the surface temperature should not reach over 27 degrees.

 

Underlay for Engineered Wood

There are many types of wood flooring underlay available to make sure that your floor performs to your expectations. Timbertech Original Extra Underlay is an ideal choice for use with engineered floors. An underlay will support the joints and provide sound reduction. An underlay should always be used if you choose to lay your floor floating. If the floor itself is being fully glued down there is no need to use and underlay, but if the floor is being pinned or screwed down, it can be used for heat and sound insulation.

 

What Types of Engineered Flooring are Stocked?

At Green Apple Flooring we have a huge selection of engineered flooring to choose from, in all types of finishes, so we are bound to have something perfect for your project.

Lacquered Or Oiled Wood Flooring

A very important thing to consider when choosing your solid or engineered wood flooring is the finish. The finish will dictate the overall look of your floor and the right finish can really make a floor, the floor of your dreams. The finishes that are generally available are either lacquered or oiled. Both have massive benefits and Green Apple have a large collection of both, guaranteeing that we will have the perfect floor for you.

Lacquered Wood Flooring

Modern lacquered wood flooring is extremely tough and hard wearing, with most floors benefiting from at least 4 layers of lacquer, making this finish ideal for use in the modern home. Lacquered wooden floors are now available in a variety of styles, so you can choose from a glossy, or matt appearance. With UV lacquers now readily available, you can even choose to have an oiled effect lacquer or a textured lacquer, giving a very natural, beautiful look.

Lacquered wood benefits from being low maintenance. A quick sweep with a soft broom and a wipe over with a wood flooring cleaner is all it needs to keep it looking good.

Over time your wood floor may develop some damage with hard use. This can add to the over all character of the floor, and can be quite appealing as the floor ages and develops a unique pattern.

Lacquered wood flooring can be sanded back and re-finished if you wish to revitalise it and give the room a new look or new lease of life. Due to the hard wearing nature of this type of floor, this rarely needs to be done, but is a job that should be undertaken by a professional to achieve the perfect finish.

Oiled Wood Flooring

Oiled wood flooring is extremely versatile and has many benefits. The oils penetrate deeply into the wood, protecting it and giving it moisture resistance whilst allowing the wood to breathe. There are many finishes, with matt or satin oils available, as well as coloured oils to totally change the colouring.

Oiled wood floors require periodic oiling to keep them fresh and vibrant, but a massive advantage of re-applying the oil is that any scratches and scuff marks are instantly removed, resulting in a perfect finish once again.

This finish has great resistance to abrasive damage and any small areas that become scuffed may be re-oiled without having to attend to the whole floor, making it very forgiving and easy to maintain.

Real Wood Flooring Grades

Solid wood flooring and engineered wood flooring are often referred to as being a certain grade. Timber is a natural product and so there is a tremendous variation in appearance, texture and colour available, even across just once species of tree. Floors are graded to allow for accurate sorting of the flooring to achieve a satisfactory result depending on the look required.

Prime Grade

Prime grade wood flooring is the most uniform of the grades with very few knots and less natural variation. Expect to pay a premium, as only 15% of the timber from a tree would be categorised in this way. This grade is perfect if you want a clean, crisp, uniform look for your room.

Natural Grade

Sometimes referred to as character grade flooring, Natural grade wood flooring, is a “middle ground” flooring in terms of quality and appearance and will contain a scatter of knots throughout. The rest of the board will be relatively clear with some grain patterns and colour variation. This is a perfect look for people who would like some natural variation and interesting features in their wooden flooring without being overly rustic.

Rustic Grade

Rustic grade wooden flooring has lots of natural details throughout. The abundance of heavy gaining and knots means this type of floor really does bring across the character of the tree. This style of board is full of interest and personality and is ideal for creating a traditional look. Rustic grade wood flooring is normally the best value and most popular due to the high yield from the tree.

Underfloor Heating

Underfloor heating is no longer an expensive luxury and advances in technology now mean that it can be a wonderful addition to any room. Because modern underfloor heating systems emit a gentle radiant heat over the whole area of the room, they are suitable for use with many laminate floorings, making your floor practical as well as beautiful. This type of heat distribution is very comfortable as there are no hot spots in the room.

Which Underfloor Heating to Choose

There are many heating systems on the market, and it can be difficult to choose which one is best for you. A highly recommended system is The Ecofilm system. It can be used as a primary heat source in a well-insulated room, and comes with a 10-year guarantee against manufacturing defects. The heating is connected to a timer thermostat, which offers full flexibility and control.

Installation

It is very easy to lay underfloor heating under laminate flooring or engineered wood floor. The subfloor should be nice and even. A layer of insulation designed for use with heated wood floors should be laid. This will minimise heat loss, act as a sound deadener and support your floor like a traditional underlay. Then you can lay your heating elements. These can be fitted very easily as they are normally just rolled out onto the floor. You should take care not to overlap the elements at this point. After laying a vapour barrier, you are ready to put the floor of your choice down; this is laid in the normal way. Then all that is left for you to do is to have the thermostat connected.

How To Measure Your Floor

Please add 5% wastage to your calculations.

The majority of floor manufacturers as well as fitters recommend a minimum of 5% wastage when ordering a wood floor, this will hopefully allow for those small mistakes and complicated cuts. Sometimes on occasions there are small pieces that cannot be used anywhere without spoiling the look of the floor.

 

Acclimatising Wood Flooring

The reasons behind allowing a solid or engineered wood floor to acclimatise in the area it is to be fitted are because of the nature of the wood that is used.  Wood flooring is a natural product and has many properties that should be taken into account during storage and preparation.

When a floor is laid, it will react to the environment it is being fitted in, so by acclimatising the wood beforehand, you are reducing the chances that the wood will react in a way that may affect the look of the finished project.  Such as buckling or gaps between boards.

The two main things that could affect the flooring are temperature and humidity.  Both temperature and humidity could cause the wood to expand or contract as the wood takes on or releases moisture, or reacts to heat and cold.

To avoid these extreme changes in the wood after laying it is best to make sure that the room the floor is to be laid in is totally enclosed, with any plastering or painting projects well and truly finished and dried.

Make sure any air conditioning or heating that will be used in the room is operating normally.

Set the flooring out in the area to be fitted and leave it for as long as possible to get used to the normal conditions of the room.

This should ensure that the wood is matched in temperature and moisture content to the room it is being laid in and therefore should not expand or contract more than necessary.

Once the flooring has become acclimatised to the environment that it will be laid in, it can then be laid, which you can read more information about in our wood flooring installation section.

Allowing for Wastage

Allowing for waste is a very important part of the planning process of buying a wooden floor. Too few packs can mean
a wait for extra supplies to arrive; too many may result in wasted packs that are never used.
There will always be a certain amount of wastage when fitting wood flooring, awkward shapes, mistakes, pattern and
fitting guidelines will all result in parts that are unusable and so end up being disposed of.
A good amount to allow for waste is around 5%. This should give you enough leeway to get the finish you require,
without too much left over at the end of the job.

Setting Out Your Floor

Once you have chosen the direction you want the wood floor to run you need to decide where to start.

Setting out from the angled wall will mean the floor looks out of square with the rest of the room and will not look straight as you enter the room.

It is important to pick a wall that is at right angles to the rooms’ entrance. This will ensure you see a nice straight floor as you enter the room.

Incorrect Flooring Layout

Make sure your wood flooring is laid in a random fashion. Your floor should look as natural as possible. Ensure your header joints are not to close together and are randomly spaced.

Header Joints Too Close Together

Don’t fit your header joints to close together. Placing your header joints too close together doesn’t look good and can weaken your floor.

The floor should look random and will give it a maximum strength, make sure there is at least 150mm (6 inches) between each header joint.

Using the Longest Wall for Laying Flooring

It often makes sense to lay the floor following the longest wall, this is nearly always the best choice in a narrow hall.

In general if it looks and feels right for you, that’s the way to lay your floor. Lay several boards out on the floor first, one way then the other. Look at the floor from where you enter the room, or where you will be sitting in the room.

Moisture Testing

Excessive moisture in a room can cause problems with your wood flooring. The wood can absorb the moisture and swell or buckle. Sometimes if the room has too much moisture in it when the flooring is fitted, then the flooring may develop gaps in the joints as the wood dries out over time.

It is a good idea to test the moisture levels in the room before fitting your floor. Most manufacturers recommend testing before fitting to ensure your floor gets the best possible start.

There are two main types of moisture meter. Probe and pin less. Probe meters have pins that are pushed into the surface to be tested and measures the resistance between the pins. The lower the resistance, the higher the moisture content. Pin less meters don’t leave any holes or damage and work bypassing a signal into the surface to be tested.

The ideal levels of moisture for a wooden floor can vary according to manufacturer, and it is always best to check the guidelines to make sure.

As a general rule the moisture content of a floor covering should be within 2-3% of the content of the sub floor. Ideally the sub floor should have a relative humidity of 35- 40% and moisture content of 2-3% but sometimes levels can be acceptable up to 5% moisture content and 75% relative humidity.

It is good practice to record these levels when laying the flooring as if any problems present themselves later on, you can refer back to these numbers to rule out moisture issues at fitting.

Working From Several Packs at Once

When fitting an engineered or solid wood floor always work from several packs at once. This will ensure your floor has an even shading across the whole area.

Remember each pack may be slightly darker or lighter than another as real wood is a natural product with shade variation.

Which Direction to Lay Your Wooden Floor

It is important to decide which direction to lay your new wood flooring. There is no fixed rule, but you should consider the following points before making your decision.

Laying the boards long ways away from you as you enter the room. In general this layout looks the most appealing.

Laying the boards in this direction as you enter the room. In general narrows the appearance of the rooms depth.

How To Lay Engineered Flooring

Engineered wood flooring is very versatile and can be laid in a number of ways.

Floating Engineered Wood Flooring

This is one of the easiest ways to lay engineered wood flooring. It is laid in more of less the same way as a laminate.

Before you begin

There are a few things you should check before you start to lay your engineered wood flooring.

  • Do you have enough flooring? Did you allow extra for cuts and waste?
  • Do you have all of your tools ready? Saw, Fitting wedges, pencil, tape measure etc.
  • Check the materials for any small problems, it is much easier to rectify these before the floor is laid.
  • Is the sub floor ok? A level and clean floor will be much easier to lay your flooring onto.

 

Wood Flooring Underlay

Once you are happy that you have everything and there are no problems, you can put your wood flooring underlay down on the floor. Mostly the underlay will just be rolled out or laid out onto the floor before your laminate. If your sub floor is concrete, you should have a membrane or an underlay with a membrane built in, this should be taped or overlapped according to manufacturers instructions to create a moisture resistant barrier.

Where to start

The best direction to lay engineered wood flooring is in the direction of a light source such as a window as the light streaming into the room really picks up the shine and beauty of the floor. It is best to start against a wall and then work your way across the room. This gives you a stable starting point.

Laying the planks

Engineered wood flooring will have little differences between the manufacturers, so it is best to read and follow the instructions in the pack, but as a general rule, you will start out by putting your first plank against the wall with some fitting wedges to keep the distance uniform. You then continue the row, by locking,clicking or glueing the planks into each other. When you get to the end of the row, measure and cut a plan to finish. Don’t forget to leave an expansion gap. Pop a fitting wedge in to keep this gap.

If you had to cut the last plank of the row, if it is longer than 30cm, then you can use it to start the next row. The boards should be staggered so this is an ideal way to start the next row off.

Continue in this way until you have covered the whole floor.

The last row may be a little bit trickier to do, but if you measure it well, it should just be a case of easing the final cuts into place.

Finishing off

Now you can put your trims and threshold strips on to finish the flooring off.

Skirting’s or scotia can be pinned or glued into place. They should be glued to the wall and not the floor. This allows the flooring to expand and contract underneath.

Your thresholds will often have a base plate that is screwed or stuck down. With a strip that presses down into it. This will take up any height differences between rooms and ensure that the flooring is not damaged.

Nailing Engineered Wood Flooring

Before you begin

The planks should be stored in the area it is to be laid in for a few days to allow it to acclimatise. All furniture and floor fittings should be removed from the room.

If the area you wish to cover is uneven or cement, then the floor will need to be boarded out with ply first to achieve a nice flat surface

It is a good idea to open up some packs first and loose lay them to get a feel for the mixture of shades and lengths of the planks

Make sure you have the correct tools ready: Broom and dustpan, Saws, nails, Hammer, Wood floor nailer, pry bar, spacer wedges, mallet and knee pads.

Where to start

Choose the planks you will use to start your first row. Long planks should be the easiest to start off with. The best direction to lay engineered wood flooring is in the direction of the light source such as a window as the light streaming into the room really picks up the shine and beauty of the floor.

It is best to start against a wall and then work your way across the room. This gives you a stable starting point.

Laying the planks

Put the planks with the groove to the wall. Pop some spacers in place to make sure you have a gap for expansion and then drill some little pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail this first row down, through the wood, close to the wall.

Don’t worry too much about these nails being seen, if they are nice and tight to the edge, they will be covered up by your edge trims.

Blind nail the first couple of rows by hand to make sure you have a nice stable start to the room. Drill pilot holes at 45-50 degree angles through the tongues first. Make sure the nails are positioned at the joists of the original floor and every 10 inches

When installing the rows, position a small piece of flooring along the edge and give it a sharp rap with a mallet or hammer to tighten it against the previous row before nailing. This will ensure the joints are nice and tight.

Stagger the joints by at least 6 inches

Once you have installed the first 3 rows you can work a lot faster using a wood floor nailer. This is slipped over the board tongue, and then strike the plunger with a mallet to drive the nails in at the perfect angle.

Once you get to the last row, use a pry bar to wedge the planks tight before nailing in place in the same way as the first row. This will again be covered up by your edge trim.

Glueing Engineered Wood Flooring

Before you begin

There are a few things you should check before you start to lay your engineered wood flooring.

  • Do you have enough flooring? Did you allow extra for cuts and waste?
  • Do you have all of your tools ready? Saw, Fitting wedges, pencil, tape measure, glue trowel etc.
  • Check the materials for any small problems, it is much easier to rectify these before the floor is laid.
  • Is the sub floor ok?  A level and clean floor will be much easier to lay your flooring onto
  • Is the floor concrete? Do you need to apply a damp proof membrane first?

Where to start

The best direction to lay engineered wood flooring is in the direction of a light source such as a window as the light streaming into the room really picks up the shine and beauty of the floor.

It is best to start against a wall and then work your way across the room. This gives you a stable starting point.

Laying the planks

Make sure you are happy with the mix of planks you are going to use and get your first batch of cuts ready. Then spread or squeeze the glue out onto the surface the flooring is to be laid on. Only spread the glue in a workable area. The glue will either come in a tub, and will be trowelled on, or in a tube, which will be spread in ribbons.

Carefully place your planks onto the adhesive and tap gently to ensure it beds into the adhesive. Make sure any joints are staggered by at least 6 inches to increase stability.

Work your way to the other side of the room and allow the floor plenty of time to dry out.

Make sure you wipe away any excess adhesive before it dries.

Finishing off

Now you can put your trims and threshold strips on to finish the flooring off.

Skirtings or scotia can be pinned or glued into place. They should be glued to the wall and not the floor. This allows the flooring to expand and contract underneath.

Your thresholds will often have a base plate that is screwed or stuck down.  With a strip that presses down into it. This will take up any height differences between rooms and ensure that the flooring is not damaged.

How To Fit Wood Flooring to an Existing Staircase

Prepare the existing stairs to receive the new stair profiles. Most stair nosings are suitable for right angled stairs only.

For stairs that have a rounded profile, please follow either instruction 1a, or alternatively follow instruction 1b, prior to laying your chosen wooden floor

1a. Before laying your chosen flooring. Remove the rounded profile from the top of the stairs using a jigsaw, making it flush with the vertical face.

1b. Alternatively before laying your chosen flooring. Pack out the vertical face of the stairs, using ply wood to the reduced thickness, to make the surface flush with the top of the stairs.

2. Cut to the correct height and width then glue on all your stair risers first.

3. Measure width of stairs, cut stair nosing to length.

4. Securely fix stair nosing in place using glue and or screws, and allow to dry.

5. Cut to the correct length and width then glue on all your treads. Allow stairs to fully dry before use.

Cleaning Engineered Floors

Choosing the correct cleaner for your wooden floor is very important. The wrong cleaner can leave your floor looking dull and smeared or even cause damage! Be wary of “all in one” cleaners as these are not tailored to your floors needs, and may leave wax and polish residues on the floor surface. Your flooring may look good in the short term, but over time, this build up will dull your floor.

Cleaning Laminate Floors

Laminate flooring is remarkably easy to clean. First sweep or vacuum up any dust, then dampen a floor cloth or microfibre mop with an appropriate cleaner. The key is to make your mop damp, but not wet, as too much moisture over time can cause swelling. A good mopping method is to run the mop in the direction the laminate is laid. The cleaner should evaporate quickly, leaving a clean, streak free finish.

The Quick Step Flooring Cleaning Kit is absolutely ideal for this job as it contains a mop specifically designed with laminate floor in mind and a spray bottle of cleaning fluid. The spray bottle means that you can deliver the correct amount of liquid without saturating your floor delivering perfect results.

Lacquered Wood Flooring Cleaners

Lacquered wood flooring is cleaned in a very similar way to Laminate flooring. Any dust should be swept up with a soft broom or carefully Vacuumed up first. Then the floor should be damp mopped using a suitable cleaner. Wood flooring is a natural product, so a cleaner containing natural soap is ideal, such as Osmo Wash and Care.

Osmo Wash and Care does not contain harsh chemicals, and doesn’t leave streaks or residues. Simply mix one capful in a litre of water, and use to moisten your cloth or mop before wiping over the area to be cleaned.

Oiled Wood Flooring Cleaners

Oiled wood flooring can be cleaned in much the same way as lacquered wood, but care should be taken to ensure that the cleaner you choose is suited to an oiled floor.  Some cleaners that are suitable for other wood flooring finishes may not be right for an oiled finish.  Osmo Wash and Care is ideal for this type of cleaning, as it is a gentle natural cleaning fluid.  Mix one capful in a litre of water, and use to moisten your cloth or mop before wiping over the area tobe cleaned. Oiled wood floors should only be damp mopped to ensure there is no swelling of the wood.

 

Maintaining Engineered Floors

Once your wooden floor has been laid, you will want to make sure you look after it correctly so you can enjoy its beauty and warmth for many years to come. There are products designed to do just that, keeping your new floor in the very best condition.

Preventative Care

The best way to start looking after your laminate flooring or solid / engineered wood flooring is to prevent damage occurring in the first place. Mats at external doors are essential as these will help to remove small stones and grit from shoes that could cause scratching. All of our floors have hard wearing coatings to assist in preventing this kind of damage, but making sure mats are in place will really help keep your floor in perfect condition.

Felt pads and caster cups on furniture will also reduce the chances of damage by covering up any imperfections that may scratch or damage the floor surface.

Making sure that any spillages are cleaned up quickly will also help extend the life of your floor as if left to sit, a spill could work it’s way into the joints and cause swelling. You can use a moisture protection product called Clicseal when fitting the floor in any areas that might cause concern such as around sinks. This is a clear sealant that is squeezed into the joints during installation. It provides moisture resistance, but does not glue the joints, allowing boards to be taken back up without damage if needed.

Laminate Flooring

When cleaning laminate flooring it is important to use the correct product. Cleaners with waxes and polishes in, may be ideal for other areas of the home, but may cause damage to laminate flooring or leave residues that will make the floor appear dull. A soft broom and a mop or cloth dampened with a laminate flooring cleaner should be all you need to maintain your floor. For heavier marks such as pen or shoe scuffs Quick-step Force can be used to effortlessly wipe them away.

Oiled Wood Floors

Oiled wood floors require periodic oiling to keep the floor in good condition.  The oil penetrates deep into the wood surface creating a tough barrier that will repel dirt, moisture and dust.  The Osmo Polyx Oils we have available at Green Apple Flooring are very simple to use, and all you need do is apply a thin coating on a clean, dust free floor.  This will re-vitalise it and top up the oil’s natural defences.  If there is any staining or marks, these can be removed during the maintenance by lightly sanding them out before applying the fresh coat of oil.

Lacquered Wood Floors

As lacquered wood floors do not require periodic treating, maintenance is relatively simple. A soft broom and a suitable everyday cleaner are essential. Dried stains on a lacquered floor may require sanding if they have soaked right in, but this takes time, so it is best to work on stains and spills as quickly as possible.

Repairing Engineered Floors

If you maintain your floor well, you should not find yourself in a situation where you need to perform repairs. Mats placed at external doors and felt pads on your furniture will protect your floor and extend the life of it. But accidents do happen. If you do need to do any repairs, there are often simple solutions to make your floor look as good as new again.

Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring has a very tough top layer that should prevent most scratches and staining. If you wish to repair a scratch on a laminate floor, Green Apple sells an ingenious repair kit from Quick-step Flooring called Quick Step Mix & Fix. This kit contains repair paste, a spatula and two bottles of pigment to allow you to get the perfect colour to match your floor.

Sometimes damage can be more severe. If, for example, a heavy item of furniture has been dragged across the floor and left deeper scratches. Because laminate flooring is so simple to lay, it would be very easy to take part of the floor up and replace damaged boards if required.

Lacquered Wood Flooring

A small amount of wear can really add to the character of a lacquered floor, giving it an aged look that can be beautiful in itself, but if you wish to disguise small scratches, this can be achieved using wood coloured putty. For larger areas of damage the floor surface can be sanded back and re-finished giving the whole area a new lease of life. This should only need to be done rarely, but should be undertaken by a professional to get a perfect finish.

Small dents can sometimes be taken care of by covering with a dampened cloth and pressing with an electric iron to draw the fibres up, but this should be done with caution.

Oiled Wood Flooring

Oiled wood flooring is very easy to repair as day-to-day damage is normally taken care of during the periodic oiling with a product such as Osmo Polyx Oil. However, if an area is particularly worn or stained, it can be lightly sanded back to remove the damage before re-oiling to refresh the board. The repaired board will blend in nicely with the surrounding floor.

Helpful Hints

In order to have years of satisfaction from your chosen laminate or wooden floor please take time to read the information below.
Read the manufacturer’s fitting and cleaning instructions

Failure to comply with manufacturers instructions may invalidate your guarantee.
Seek professional advice regarding your flooring

Green Apple Flooring provides the information shown below only as a guide. We are knowledgeable about the product and its basic installation.  If you have any concerns or need reassurance it is important that you seek the advice of a qualified professional (please note a carpenter does not necessarily know how to install wood floors).
Ensure you order the correct amount of wood flooring

Under ordering may result in shade difference when you order your shortfall. For more information, view our How to Measure Your Floor Guide.
All wood floors (inc. laminates) can mark

It is important to remember that all floors mark dependant on use and situation. Laminate flooring offer the most resistance to scratching having a special top layer protecting the wood effect paper.

Real wood flooring including all veneers are much easier to mark; different types of wood are stronger than others. Scratches will occur, denting or bruising of real wood floors is much easier than a laminate.

Treat your real wood floor, as a piece of furniture and it will give you years of good service.

With all floors fit coasters, felt pads etc. to all furniture.  Do not drag any furniture. Take care to ensure footwear is clean and free from grit. In the case of a real wood floor avoid high heels as these may pit the surface. The use of indoor and outdoor matting is recommended.

Regular sweeping and vacuuming will remove potentially abrasive grit.
All flooring can vary in shade

Laminates are a photograph of wood and may shade from batch to batch.  Real woods (inc. veneers) are a natural product and will shade.

The sample does not guarantee the final shade and appearance of your product.

If you require guaranteed consistence of shade, knotting (including the colour of knot filler) and texture do not pick a natural product. Every tree is different.

All natural products will change colour with age and exposure to ultra violet rays. Depending on wood species this can be lighter or darker.
Gapping occurs with wood floors according to the season

Expansion occurs as real wood gains moisture and shrinkage as it loses moisture, gaps will open and close with the cycle of seasons. Knots in the timber may lose their filler, this is normal. Real wood is a natural product and is affected by its surroundings.
Acclimatisation is required for wooden floors

Make sure your wooden floor has time to acclimatise to the room temperature, consult manufacturers literature for recommended time.

Cold floors will expand when heated.
Room humidity needs to be checked

Make sure all walls and sub floor are completely dry.

Moisture in the air will be absorbed by your floor, causing excessive expansion. If in doubt use a Damp Meter to check for excessive moisture, as this may affect your guarantee. Keep note of any readings as these may be needed should any problems arise.
Outside / Inside inspection is recommended

Inspections before installing a new wood floor are advised to ensure air bricks are free from blockage and damp courses are in good order. Ensure all plastering, tiling, painting and screeding has had time to dry out. In the case of kitchens all appliances should be checked for leaks.
The subfloor must be completely flat

It is very, very important that your floor is completely flat (+/- 5mm over 2m)

A bumpy floor will still remain a bumpy floor. Do not rely on underlay to iron out bumps; this is not its purpose. You may feel that immediately after your installation you have successfully hidden the bump or hollow. However once the floor starts to settle the bump or hollow will reappear.
Use the correct tools fitting your floor

Please use the correct tools.

Most laminate floors are installed with the click system method, which do not require glue. They are installed by either tapping together or clicking together.

It is very easy to damage your floor by not using appropriate knocking blocks, pulling bars and in the case of glue systems, the correct clamps.
A damp proof membrane maybe required

It is important that no moisture can rise up from the subfloor.

All concrete screeded floors should have a damp proof membrane, use a vapour barrier to seal joins in underlay.

Please remember even if you have vinyl tiles or something similar covering your concrete floor be 100%certain and fit a damp proof membrane. Real wood nailed to an existing wooden floor should also have a moisture vapour barrier such as ‘building paper’.
The correct underlays and floor adhesives need to be used

It is very important the correct wood flooring underlay or wood flooring adhesive is used. The wrong adhesive could cause the floor to fail, not following the adhesives guidelines for floor preparation and priming may also cause a failure.
All floors require an expansion joint

All floors expand. Leave expansion joint as per manufacturers instructions.

Remember make sure you leave expansion everywhere including doorways, radiator pipes etc.
Underfloor heating can only be used with certain products

Is only recommended with certain products, guidelines and instructions must be followed. When heating is switched off over long periods expect a wider range of seasonal movement.
Ensure you don’t install a faulty product

Please take care that you do not fit chipped, scratched or faulty material.

Once installed the manufacturer does not have to replace the product.

In all cases the manufacturer limits his liability to the replacement of product and does not include any labour costs.
Oiled floors require regular re-oiling

Flooring sold as an oiled product must be re-oiled once installed before the floor receives any use, such as Osmo Polyx Oil. This may be between 1 and 3 coats dependent on the manufacturers guidelines.

Regular re-oiling will be required to ensure the longevity and performance of your floor, again please refer to the manufacturers guidelines.
Take care when cleaning your floor

All real wood and laminate products need great care when cleaning. In all cases consult the manufacturers cleaning guidelines before cleaning your new floor.
Too much water is not a good thing

No wood floors (with exception of some laminates) like water. The less the better.

A floor’s weak point is the joints. Water penetration will cause bubbling to the edges and could ultimately lead to floor failure. Any spillage should be mopped up immediately.
Please note: The above is offered as information and guidance only. It is not intended to replace in any way the manufactures instructions for use or installation. We do not accept any liability for failure to follow the manufacturers instructions.

Start typing and press Enter to search